Tuscany = Heaven

Duomo in SienaWhere to start?? On Wednesday, we woke up early and took the hour long bus ride to Florence’s sister city, Siena. We got a bit of a late start to the day and we were to be at the Duomo by 9:30 am to sing the 10 am mass. Sadly, we didn’t pull into the outskirts of Siena until about 9:40, and, with its extremely narrow streets, we were forced to park quite a distance from the cathedral. So, we agreed to let the choristers and professional singers off the bus first to book it up the hill to shorten the 15 minute walk to a 10 minute morning jog. We just made it, sweaty (it’s 100 degrees here, after all) and out of breath. In fact, we walked into the door at 9:55, gathered ourselves enough to get the music organized, and immediately began singing the introit to mass. It was not a big crowd (we no doubt raised their average daily mass attendance by 50) but the voices of the choir resounded through the vast space with the greatest of beauty. The Duomo in Siena is a spectacular edifice. With its striped marble, incredible frescoes, and immense collection of illuminated choir books, it was very difficult to leave. But the streets of Siena were calling, and, I’l be honest, so was the gelato…there just are not words to describe the beauty of Siena, so I will leave it to you all to make sure you visit this village at some point in your lifetime. It will change your life.

Thursday provided the travelers thier first and only completely free day on the trip. Some chose to take the day off or to shop, some chose to climb the towers of Florence, and some others (like my family and me) visited what is arguably the world’s finest museum – the Uffizi. The line starts to wrap around the museum about an hour before it opens at 8:15. Let me tell you – it is worth the wait. In fact, I personally have been waiting to see the Uffizi since my Art History class in grad school. It seemed like every slide on the screen was a picture one could see in Florence. The Uffizi houses some of the most pivotal and influential pieces of art ever created. One could spend days there if not a lifetime, but I found myself overloaded with emotion from the art I saw there. In so many ways, these collections of art affected me as music does – one can’t help but be moved to another reality when experiencing masterpieces like this. It’s inspiring, transformative, and overwhelming. An absolutely amazing opportunity for those that went.

Duomo in Orvieto

Today, we said a fond farewell to Florence (some didn’t want to leave!) and made our way to Rome via a lovely mountain-top Tuscan village, Orvieto. The cathedral that sits at the center of this town is yet another masterpiece of Italian architecture. Yet another. Somehow it doesn’t get tiring seeing one architectural or visual wonder after another. One could stare at the west front of the Duomo for hours and the frescoes in the chapel there rival those in the Sistene Chapel. Throughout the village as a whole, there are lovely shops and little restaurants, a great way to spend an afternoon.

We have now arrived at our hotel in Rome – a nice place in a great location. Tomorrow we rehearse a bit and then head to the Vatican for our tour of the museum and the Sistene Chapel there. Maybe we should just call this tour the Choir of Men and Boys renaissance art tour…not a bad thing, I suppose!

Take good care, everyone back in Grosse Pointe.

Scott

Photos courtesy of RobinMPhotography

The beauty of Florence

First, I’m sorry it has been so long since my last entry. We have been exceedingly busy and, with a couple early morning starts, I’ve needed to try to get some rest for the days ahead. Tonight, however, I did want to catch everyone up on what’s been happening on our trip.

Sunday was an interesting day with great highs and a major low. We started the day off with a service at the American Cathedral. It was very nice to be with our Anglican brothers and sisters in Paris and hear the more familiar liturgy of the Episcopal Church…in English even! The choir sang very well and we received a very warm welcome from the Cathedral clergy.

We then made our way to St. Sulpice for our concert. Things went very well musically and we were pleased to see a healthy sized crowd turn up for the event. The acoustics of St. Sulpice are truly out of this world and we enjoyed the near 8 seconds of reverberation after we finished singing. A place like that is hard to find in the USA but seem to be everywhere in Europe!

Unfortunately, after the concert, we discovered that someone had broken into our changing room and stolen a good amount of our stuff. Money, wallets, cameras, iPods, sunglasses…7 people were affected (Meredith and I lost some cash) and it was a sad way to end a remarkable day.

We did, however, get to spend several hours in the local Paris police station. As we struggled to work with officers who spoke no English, we managed to get our police reports so that we can submit insurance claims when we return to the states. One of the singers lost a great deal of camera equipment, and we were fortunate that a traveler who was joining us in Florence could bring a replacement. It eased the sting of the burglary a little bit at least.

We got home that night after the group dinner had finished, so the 7 of us grabbed a quick bite down the road from our hotel. If nothing else was gained by our field trip to the police station, we all got to know each other even better than before and we will always have a story to share…

Yesterday was a travel day and was it ever! We were to take a train from Paris to Milan and then from Milan to Florence. But, because of some random daily Italian railway strikes, the trip from Moderne, France to Milan was not running yesterday. This meant we had to haul our luggage off the train in Moderne and take a 3 and a half hour bus ride to Milan – no time for lunch or even a snack until 4 pm in the afternoon. Thankfully, we made it to Milan in time to catch our train to Florence and everyone pulled through to make it all work. I was so proud of everyone for their tolerance of a crazy day. It took a lot of patience on everyone’s part. Once we got to dinner in Florence, the pasta could not have tasted better…at least for those that took the time to actually taste it instead of inhaling it…

Shopping in Florence

Today was a full day in the lovely city of Florence. If you have never been to Florence, please make a point to see it! It is a spectacular city full of narrow cobble-stoned streets, artwork everywhere, and an amazing Duomo that sits in the city center. And not to mention the gelato…so much for losing weight on this trip…

We went to the Academie Museum this morning to see Michelangelo’s statue of David (the real one) and several paintings by Caravaggio, Renaissance altarpieces and iconography, and a gallery of historic musical instruments. I was in charge of some of the boys this morning as one of the chaperones took the morning off and I had a great time pointing out to the boys all of the idiosyncracies of some of the artwork and each Madonna and Child portrait we could find. Just ask any of them what shape most of the paintings are in and why!

Tomorrow is a full day in Siena. We sing at the Duomo for mass in the morning and then spend the day in this equally beautiful town. I can’t wait to tell you all about it.

Until then,

Scott

Photos courtesy of RobinMPhotography

Busy days…

Walking under the pyramid at the Louvre

Wow…it has been a packed couple of days. Yesterday, we spent the morning at the Louvre with a brief but informative guided tour. One could spend weeks winding their way through the halls of the Louvre, but time just didn’t allow it this time. We did manage to visit the old standards – Venus de Milo, Mona Lisa, deLacroix’s Coronation – and we got a good idea of what to visit the next time (whenever that will be).

After the Louvre, we had some free time to wander the vibrant streets of Paris before a scheduled rehearsal at the American Cathedral. Most of us walked to grab crepes for lunch which led to a nice sugar crash later on in the day. We managed to acclimate our voices to the new space, but I won’t deny that we were still tired and not yet quite ready for the musical demands of the coming days. 

Dinner at the Hard Rock Cafe and a good night’s sleep led us into a free morning today – a much needed time for relaxation or even a little shopping. Some decided not to waste even a free moment. Several of the boys asked to be awakened early so that they could head to Notre Dame and climb the tower. They were hoping to get there before it opened and the line began to snake around the church and they were successful. Well done boys!

This afternoon began the bustle of our weekend singing. We began with rehearsal in St. Sulpice – an amazingly beautiful and reverberant church where the famous organist Charles Marie Widor played and composed (think Easter Toccata). It took a little time to get used to the space, but the result was worth it. We are all looking forward to our concert there tomorrow afternoon.

Notre Dame Cathedral

From St. Sulpice, we made our way to Notre Dame Cathedral for our first musical performance of the tour. We sang the Saturday evening mass for a “full house” to great success. The choir was in top form (just in time) and parishioners at Christ Church would have been very proud of their choir. In fact, as we processed out, spontaneous applause broke out within the congregation. An odd occurrence, but, in this case, a welcome one. One never knows how they will be received in a new setting like Notre Dame where multiple choirs visit every weekend. It is comforting to know that our hard work was appreciated.

Now, the choristers and the professional singers (I hope) are all asleep preparing themselves for tomorrow’s big day of services. Until then, know that we are absorbing so much of this fine city and the culture here in France. By the end of tomorrow, we will have so many stories to tell and musical moments to remember.

Scott

Photos courtesy of RobinMPhotography